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Tutorial – Sculpting Layered Armour

Tutorial – Sculpting Layered Armour

Just a quick one here. As I started work on a second Techmarine/MotF for a client I figured I’d show the approach to making Techmarine layer armour. There was a curing time of at least 4 hours between each of these pics so as to make sure I didn’t damage the sculpting on the previous stage.

The technique for producing each layer is actually very similar to that I used to make the shoulder iconography, in that I made sure the depth of the GS was correct first and then carefully trimmed away excess from the edges to obtain the correct shape. Finally I tidied up the edges very carefully with a small flat clayshaper.

Normally if I were doing layered armour (for say a Mark 2 suit of power armour) I’d trim back the thickness of the legs that I’m sculpting over first, otherwise I’d be adding too much bulk to them. However, in the case of the first and this second Techmarine/MotF I planned to make them “unbudgeable” looking as someone on Warseer described it. With all the heavy gear techmarines carry I think massive boots look quite suitable. Anyhow, on to the pics.

September 3, 2010

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  • Quantum X Anomaly

    I’ve only recently started working with GS, but there’s only one other very brief tutorial that I’ve seen on doing layered armor. This makes re-evolving tyranid carapace a real pain. Thanks for the tut, I’ll be trying that one (only with a modified easy bake oven for decreased GS set times)

    • Anonymous

      you could try mixing the green stuff with a small amount of milliput, gives you a much harder finish, although it takes longer to set. however if you are careful you wont need to wait for each layer to dry (i don’t, but i’ve only sculpted over other Tyranid armour as i was bulking it up to make a hive tyrant into a swarmlord) oh and if you are using either your fingers or a tool remember to keep them wet, to minimize it sticking to the wrong thing

      • http://masteroftheforge.com Lamenter

        Never actually tried mixing different putties, perhaps I should do some experimenting with that.

        • Anonymous

          at the moment i only mix green stuff with the yellow grey standard milliput, im yet to try mixing it with the fine white milliput

        • Anonymous

          at the moment i only mix green stuff with the yellow grey standard milliput, im yet to try mixing it with the fine white milliput

      • http://masteroftheforge.com Lamenter

        Never actually tried mixing different putties, perhaps I should do some experimenting with that.

      • http://profiles.google.com/joseantoniofabian Jose Fabian

        Hey man, nice tip! Sorry for the late reply, but I have one for you- instead of using water or saliva, use glycerin. It’s very cheap, won’t run, won’t affect the putty and will stay wet for hours upon hours. All you need is a tiny bit on your tool and to run it over the GS. Though if you are mixing with milliput which is water solluble, that might affect something… but so would any water you use to wet anyway and since it’s mixed in with GS it should stay mostly fine.

    • Anonymous

      you could try mixing the green stuff with a small amount of milliput, gives you a much harder finish, although it takes longer to set. however if you are careful you wont need to wait for each layer to dry (i don’t, but i’ve only sculpted over other Tyranid armour as i was bulking it up to make a hive tyrant into a swarmlord) oh and if you are using either your fingers or a tool remember to keep them wet, to minimize it sticking to the wrong thing

  • Quantum X Anomaly

    I’ve only recently started working with GS, but there’s only one other very brief tutorial that I’ve seen on doing layered armor. This makes re-evolving tyranid carapace a real pain. Thanks for the tut, I’ll be trying that one (only with a modified easy bake oven for decreased GS set times)