Artscale Librarian (Ezekial)

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  • Erich

    the final robe you put over the mass (basic shape) was that a sheet of greenstuff rolled flat then wrapped around or how did you do that?

    • Rather than a sheet it was just a soft mix of Green Stuff applied as a blob and carefully pushed and spread across the surface with a large soft clayshaper. Essentially very similar to applying as a ready rolled sheet but instead done on the miniature rather than separately.

      The left and right sides were done separately too, allowing each to fully cure to as not to risk any damage. There was also a lot of trimming with a lubricated scalpel along the edges. I always apply more green stuff than I need and cut away the excess, this makes it easier to create parts to the model without the need to fill gaps.

      Always best to have too much than not enough.

  • humbrade

    Are you still looking to paint this? Would love to see it finished. I like the look of the book, but then again I’ve never really been a great fan of banners on 40k models, just sort of seems too medieval for me. The only exception I know of being the Ork banners, but the way the make them seems to work for that race.

    When you sculpt something separately with the blue stuff, how do you attack it in the right spot? I always have a lot of trouble getting it to go the way I want it when gluing it down, the superglue always dries before I have a chance to position it so I have to rip it off, fix up the damage, sculpt another one and try again, though it usually still wont work…

    • Yeah, I’ll get around to painting it some day, when I get around to making some troops for him to command.

      The trouble you are having attaching stuff in the right spot comes from using superglue. It’s almost inevitable that it’ll not be in the right spot and then the glue sets so quick you can’t adjust it. You either want an alternative type of glue or the way I do it is to apply the Green Stuff (usually an icon) before it has fully cured.

      There’s lots of variables in this, but I usually find with a 2:1 yellow:blue ratio that 2 hours is about right. At this point the Green Stuff is firm enough to hold it’s shape while being transferred but soft enough to stick to the surface. It does replace practise and a gentle touch, but it very similar in approach to using transfers/decals.

      • humbrade

        Do you find that sometimes greenstuff doesn’t stick real well by it’s self? Some things I’ve put on have fallen off through a clumsy mistake. I am just worried that I’m going to start playing with them and at some stage someone will drop one and bits will go flying. Is there something I’m not doing right or is it just the way GS is?

        • I usually have no problem making it stick, the issue I usually have is that the cast might still be too soft and gets mis-shapen in the transferring process.

          It’s all down to timing the curing properly so it’s sticky enough and not too soft. It can be tricky but I find having a piece of left over Green Stuff from when you filled the Blu-Stuff mold put on one side can be very helpful. You can give it a poke every so often to check how cured the cast is without actually damaging the cast.

          The easier alternative is of course to let it cure but use a slower setting glue. I hear there are slow setting super glues available now, maybe that’d be worth a try.

          • humbrade

            Ok, thanks mate, I’ll have to give that a look. Almost finished my second Deathwatch marine, think I’ll do the next three all at the same time to try to save some time. First one with two power swords, and the second with power halberd and bolter. Not sure what I’ll give the next three but thinking of giving one of them a heavy bolter… And maybe one with a flamer… =D

    • Yeah, I’ll get around to painting it some day, when I get around to making some troops for him to command.

      The trouble you are having attaching stuff in the right spot comes from using superglue. It’s almost inevitable that it’ll not be in the right spot and then the glue sets so quick you can’t adjust it. You either want an alternative type of glue or the way I do it is to apply the Green Stuff (usually an icon) before it has fully cured.

      There’s lots of variables in this, but I usually find with a 2:1 yellow:blue ratio that 2 hours is about right. At this point the Green Stuff is firm enough to hold it’s shape while being transferred but soft enough to stick to the surface. It does replace practise and a gentle touch, but it very similar in approach to using transfers/decals.