Enter Search Query:

Artscale Chaos Space Marines

Having made rather a lot of Artscale Loyalist Space Marines I thought it about time to turn to something more Chaotic. I started with just one Artscale Chaos Space Marine Chosen as a prototype. Because of the bits available to them Chaos Space Marines are far and away easier to scale up than loyalists. Add in the fact they can be a lot grittier and adorned with all kinds of unique details they really are rather easy.

I’d go as far as to say someone interested in being a scaled up Space Marine force should go Chaos if you want an easier time converting. The chaos terminator shoulder pads are perfect in the unconverted state, as is the backpack, and the extra details Chaos Space Marines can adorn their armour with are great for hiding less than perfect sculpting. The only areas of Green Stuff that are visible are the thighs and the back of the lower leg armour (the feet can be raised up with plasticard if need be). On the prototype model I used a tentacle arm, as I wanted to make something reminiscent of the Rogue Trader era renegades.

Click for size comparison pic.

I found out some cloaks from warhammer chaos warrior box set that fit really nicely on these particular conversions making them even more of a cut above “regular” Chaos Space Marines. This photo was just a mock up to see how the cloak looked. After making this I decided to proceed with a Killteam sized squad (6 man) of Chaos Space Marines.

The prototype minus the cloak. Note how his gear hides any need to sculpt detail underneath.

The components required for each Chaos Space Marine are as follows:

Chaos Terminator legs, arms, shoulder pads

Chaos Space Marine torso, helm/head, guns or weapons, back pack

plus any bitz and gubbins you can find (cloaks optional).



Here’s how I did the cloaks.  I was so pleased with how the addition of cloaks to my chaos space marines turned out I wanted to show exactly how the bits went together.

These plastic cloaks came from the Warhammer Chaos Warriors boxset (I purchased mine from Bitz Box). I used clippers to remove the top of the cloaks and then whittled the thickness at the top so that when attached to the back of the model the backpack will still fit. Finally I cut a V in the top to make a better fit. The width of the cloaks can also be adjusted by whittling or sanding the left and right edges.

Note: I attached these cloaks to artscaled marines so may be a bit longer on regular scaled marines. You may want to shorten them a bit more to fit.

The final step is to greenstuff the top of the cloak and fill the gap. Most of this area is covered by the backpack and pads so the GS work doesn’t need to be perfect. If your GS work is up to scratch it is possible to have the top of the cloak to flow over the top of the pads rather than underneath (much like on this Vulkan model).

December 20, 2010

Related Posts

No posts were found for display
  • Erich1234562002

    Ok So I got another great Idea, and that is making Lorgar my only well to be honset two problems Green stuff and how to make Illuminarum his weapon. The green stuff I can fight threw but what to use for his weapon I havent come up with I am thinking plastic card and plastic strips I was hoping you could tell me what you thought about  using plastic stipse to make his crozius?

    • When I read this I had a picture of what I would make it look like in my mind. When I did a quick search and found this:   http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/File:Lorgar.jpg#.Tn5pk3O1mmc    it matched exactly what I was thinking.

      I would personally use a sheet of 2mm thick plasticard and carve the individual pieces (four half circles) from that. Difficult to explain. I’d like to do some tutorials on simple plasticard stuff though.

  • Erich1234562002

    thats what I was thinking with the plastic stripes I was thinking of two full circles though? or you think that might not work as well as four?

    • I’d go for a central column and then four half circles attached around that. You could also carve and file away the inside of the half circle to make each piece more like half a ring. Attach spikes and rivets and you’re good to go. 🙂