Having made rather a lot of Artscale Loyalist Space Marines I thought it about time to turn to something more Chaotic. I started with just one Artscale Chaos Space Marine Chosen as a prototype. Because of the bits available to them Chaos Space Marines are far and away easier to scale up than loyalists. Add in the fact they can be a lot grittier and adorned with all kinds of unique details they really are rather easy.
I’d go as far as to say someone interested in being a scaled up Space Marine force should go Chaos if you want an easier time converting. The chaos terminator shoulder pads are perfect in the unconverted state, as is the backpack, and the extra details Chaos Space Marines can adorn their armour with are great for hiding less than perfect sculpting. The only areas of Green Stuff that are visible are the thighs and the back of the lower leg armour (the feet can be raised up with plasticard if need be). On the prototype model I used a tentacle arm, as I wanted to make something reminiscent of the Rogue Trader era renegades.
I found out some cloaks from warhammer chaos warrior box set that fit really nicely on these particular conversions making them even more of a cut above “regular” Chaos Space Marines. This photo was just a mock up to see how the cloak looked. After making this I decided to proceed with a Killteam sized squad (6 man) of Chaos Space Marines.
The prototype minus the cloak. Note how his gear hides any need to sculpt detail underneath.
The components required for each Chaos Space Marine are as follows:
Chaos Terminator legs, arms, shoulder pads
Chaos Space Marine torso, helm/head, guns or weapons, back pack
plus any bitz and gubbins you can find (cloaks optional).
Here’s how I did the cloaks. I was so pleased with how the addition of cloaks to my chaos space marines turned out I wanted to show exactly how the bits went together.
These plastic cloaks came from the Warhammer Chaos Warriors boxset (I purchased mine from Bitz Box). I used clippers to remove the top of the cloaks and then whittled the thickness at the top so that when attached to the back of the model the backpack will still fit. Finally I cut a V in the top to make a better fit. The width of the cloaks can also be adjusted by whittling or sanding the left and right edges.
The final step is to greenstuff the top of the cloak and fill the gap. Most of this area is covered by the backpack and pads so the GS work doesn’t need to be perfect. If your GS work is up to scratch it is possible to have the top of the cloak to flow over the top of the pads rather than underneath (much like on this Vulkan model).