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Green Stuff Cast Shoulder Pad

So I’m nearly done painting the Chaos Sorcerer. In the meantime I’ve got a small post on an test I did casting a Green Stuff shoulder pad.

In a recent post about silicone rubber and casting Green Stuff someone left a comment saying they were having a few problems casting a shoulder pad using my post as a guide. As they were asking for advice I figured I’d try a make my own cast of a shoulder pad to see where the issues may arise.

My initial thought was that the pot I used the previous example was too big for such a small item, and also a waste of rubber. Because of this I chose a plastic bottle top as the mold container, a perfect size for a single shoulder pad. I selected a spare Space Wolf pad and attached a small rod of plasticard so that I could locate the pad in the centre of the mold.

I then mixed a small amount of Liquid Blu-Stuff and poured it into the mold container, avoiding pouring it directly on the pad.

After 20 minutes I used a blunt metal tool to pry the mold from the container. Using a scalpel I sliced the mold open as close to the edge of the pad as possible, and removed the original pad. Then I cut a very small vent  in the top for excess putty to be forced out of.

I mixed a small amount of Green Stuff and an equal sized amount of Magic Sculp, and then mixed them together. I carefully estimated how much I would need to fill the mold, with a little bit extra to be sure. Getting this amount just right is very important.

After inserting into the mold I gave it a good forcible squeeze till the putty could be seen through the tiny vent in the top.

The mold was then pushed back into bottle top so make sure it kept its shape. After being left over night to cure I removed the cast from the mold and cleaned off the small amount of excess flash.

As you can see the quality of the cast is pretty much as good as I could hope for. The key thing is using a soft enough epoxy putty mix and putting just the right amount into the mold. Not enough and the cast will have gaps in it, too much and the excess putty potentially distorts the mold and therefore the shape of the cast.

One good thing however is that the mold can be re-used as often as necessary and the cost of this tiny amount of putty is literally pence. The mold itself weighed just 9 grams, meaning I can get at least 20 of this size mold out of a single 200g purchase of Liquid Blu-Stuff (sorry if that sounds like a sales pitch, I’m just so pleased with it as a product).

July 17, 2012

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  • Rich Kappmeier

    Ok, that is frakking genius.  Nice work, sir!

    • Such kind eloquent words 🙂   Thanks.

      I have to admit I’m loving the possibilities. My next step is probably casting a complete figure.

  • Kevin Suttell

    Oh wow!
    And now I HAVE to buy some Liquid Blu-Stuff from you dammit! Haha
    Awesome tutorial. Really inspiring work.

  • Yodhrin

    I’d recommend it Kevin. You’ll balk when you first open it, the bottles look so wee, but it lasts quite a while; I managed to get four moulds(three “sprues” of four heads apiece, and a Terminator-sized miniature), and that was with several cockups before I got the process down right. The detail reproduction using the GS/Magic Sculp mix is excellent.

    The only problem I have with it is I can never cut the mould in half right.

    • Al

      I hear ya yod, I have the same problem

  • humbrade

    Can this be done without the liquid bluestuff by using the bluestuff putty mix? 

    I had an order of the putty bluestuff a while ago and because I’m an Australian it takes for ever to get here. I kinda have a deadline for my models and a new order wont get here in time…

    • Sure, but the results won’t be as good.

      You should check out this great guide on From The Warp: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html

      • humbrade

        What do you think would be the quickest you could get Liquid Blue stuff to Australia from where you are? I’ve tried the putty and your right, quality isn’t as good, and with all the little crevices in a Deathwatch shoulder pad I need to get as much detail as I can I think…

        • Most Airmail from the UK is delivered within 3 to 5 working days but Australia always gets the short end of the stick. I’d expect delivery to take more like 5 to 10 days on average.

          Standard Airmail to Australia costs me above £6 on this item. I’d estimate the “Airsure” service to be a day faster but also more than double the cost.

  • SanokSkyRat

    so i know you been way from this page for sometime but these tutorials are very helpful still. However i have been having trouble most the the magic links are now broken or they stopped supplying i have tried a mix of milliput superfine white but is giving me a bad texture. Are there other things i could try? PS. i live in Australia and some of the suppliers i found don’t send to me… or cheaply.

    • Hi, yeah it’s been a while, but I’ll be back on form soon, got some new projects, and I want to get back to making some tutorials.

      As for the Magic Sculp, I had the same issue recently, I couldn’t find anyone selling the product I had been using. In the end I bought some from Sylmasta in the UK.


      It has the same name (Magic Sculp) but it is a slightly different product from what I was using. However, I find it a better product, a little stickier to start with but nice and soft. In all likelihood I’ll be sticking with this product (mixed with Green Stuff of course).

      Not sure what Sylmasta’s shipping rates are though.

      I’m actually tempted to make a large purchase of the stuff and make it available through this site as cheaply as possible in future. Same goes for Clayshaper tools.

      • SanokSkyRat

        thank you very much for the info and the fast reply. I will get right on that. PS. the Blu stuff is amazing. both forms of it. I am going to make alot of large purchases of that as well. 🙂