Comments for Master of the Forge http://masteroftheforge.com resource for converting and painting miniatures Mon, 21 May 2012 16:16:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 Comment on Tutorial – Artscale Arms by Lamenter http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/12/05/tutorial-artscale-arms/#comment-639 Lamenter Mon, 21 May 2012 16:16:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2388#comment-639 Thanks for commenting. 1. The plasticard varies in thickness. I'm asked about this a lot, with people wanting a precise answer but the truth is it's more about judging things by eye. Generally spacers are about 1mm thick and the strips on the pad trims are much much thinner, speaking of which... 2. I need to do an update on the shoulder pad trims too. I should probably do a v.3 update when I finish up the Terminator tutorial. Good luck with your conversions. Thanks for commenting.

1. The plasticard varies in thickness. I’m asked about this a lot, with people wanting a precise answer but the truth is it’s more about judging things by eye. Generally spacers are about 1mm thick and the strips on the pad trims are much much thinner, speaking of which…

2. I need to do an update on the shoulder pad trims too. I should probably do a v.3 update when I finish up the Terminator tutorial.

Good luck with your conversions.

]]> Comment on Artscale Space Marine Combat Squad by Lamenter http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/04/18/artscale-space-marine-combat-squad/#comment-638 Lamenter Mon, 21 May 2012 16:00:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=3166#comment-638 Things like the chest eagle is something I'm hoping to include in the Artscale Terminator tutorial. Essentially it's all about layers, but I'll try to show how I do it. Things like the chest eagle is something I’m hoping to include in the Artscale Terminator tutorial. Essentially it’s all about layers, but I’ll try to show how I do it.

]]> Comment on Tutorial – Artscale Arms by Kayden http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/12/05/tutorial-artscale-arms/#comment-637 Kayden Mon, 21 May 2012 07:59:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2388#comment-637 Hey there, been watching for a while, but never commented ^^; I have always been wanting to do an art scale marine, might soon have a go... so... two questions, if I may: 1. what is the thickness of the plasticard used for this? 2. Is there any tutorial for other parts (legs body etc) as V.2 or is it just the arms which were updated? Many thanks Kayden Hey there, been watching for a while, but never commented ^^;
I have always been wanting to do an art scale marine, might soon have a go… so… two questions, if I may:
1. what is the thickness of the plasticard used for this?
2. Is there any tutorial for other parts (legs body etc) as V.2 or is it just the arms which were updated?

Many thanks

Kayden

]]> Comment on Artscale Space Marine Combat Squad by Mark Walker http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/04/18/artscale-space-marine-combat-squad/#comment-636 Mark Walker Mon, 21 May 2012 00:01:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=3166#comment-636 from what iv seen from your work iv noticed that your casting of the power armour is free from iconography and you sculpt all that on....could i ask for a tutorial on how you do your cheast details plz from what iv seen from your work iv noticed that your casting of the power armour is free from iconography and you sculpt all that on….could i ask for a tutorial on how you do your cheast details plz

]]> Comment on Artscale Space Marine Combat Squad by Greg http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/04/18/artscale-space-marine-combat-squad/#comment-635 Greg Thu, 17 May 2012 23:26:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=3166#comment-635 i wish i had ur skill, maybe if i had the right tools that would help lol i wish i had ur skill, maybe if i had the right tools that would help lol

]]> Comment on Artscale Librarian (Ezekial) by humbrade http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/11/22/artscale-librarian-ezekial/#comment-634 humbrade Thu, 17 May 2012 12:23:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2331#comment-634 Ok, thanks mate, I'll have to give that a look. Almost finished my second Deathwatch marine, think I'll do the next three all at the same time to try to save some time. First one with two power swords, and the second with power halberd and bolter. Not sure what I'll give the next three but thinking of giving one of them a heavy bolter... And maybe one with a flamer... =D Ok, thanks mate, I’ll have to give that a look. Almost finished my second Deathwatch marine, think I’ll do the next three all at the same time to try to save some time. First one with two power swords, and the second with power halberd and bolter. Not sure what I’ll give the next three but thinking of giving one of them a heavy bolter… And maybe one with a flamer… =D

]]> Comment on Artscale Librarian (Ezekial) by Lamenter http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/11/22/artscale-librarian-ezekial/#comment-633 Lamenter Thu, 17 May 2012 10:42:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2331#comment-633 I usually have no problem making it stick, the issue I usually have is that the cast might still be too soft and gets mis-shapen in the transferring process. It's all down to timing the curing properly so it's sticky enough and not too soft. It can be tricky but I find having a piece of left over Green Stuff from when you filled the Blu-Stuff mold put on one side can be very helpful. You can give it a poke every so often to check how cured the cast is without actually damaging the cast. The easier alternative is of course to let it cure but use a slower setting glue. I hear there are slow setting super glues available now, maybe that'd be worth a try. I usually have no problem making it stick, the issue I usually have is that the cast might still be too soft and gets mis-shapen in the transferring process.

It’s all down to timing the curing properly so it’s sticky enough and not too soft. It can be tricky but I find having a piece of left over Green Stuff from when you filled the Blu-Stuff mold put on one side can be very helpful. You can give it a poke every so often to check how cured the cast is without actually damaging the cast.

The easier alternative is of course to let it cure but use a slower setting glue. I hear there are slow setting super glues available now, maybe that’d be worth a try.

]]> Comment on Artscale Librarian (Ezekial) by humbrade http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/11/22/artscale-librarian-ezekial/#comment-631 humbrade Tue, 15 May 2012 09:32:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2331#comment-631 Do you find that sometimes greenstuff doesn't stick real well by it's self? Some things I've put on have fallen off through a clumsy mistake. I am just worried that I'm going to start playing with them and at some stage someone will drop one and bits will go flying. Is there something I'm not doing right or is it just the way GS is? Do you find that sometimes greenstuff doesn’t stick real well by it’s self? Some things I’ve put on have fallen off through a clumsy mistake. I am just worried that I’m going to start playing with them and at some stage someone will drop one and bits will go flying. Is there something I’m not doing right or is it just the way GS is?

]]> Comment on Artscale Librarian (Ezekial) by Lamenter http://masteroftheforge.com/2010/11/22/artscale-librarian-ezekial/#comment-630 Lamenter Mon, 14 May 2012 07:20:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2331#comment-630 Yeah, I'll get around to painting it some day, when I get around to making some troops for him to command. The trouble you are having attaching stuff in the right spot comes from using superglue. It's almost inevitable that it'll not be in the right spot and then the glue sets so quick you can't adjust it. You either want an alternative type of glue or the way I do it is to apply the Green Stuff (usually an icon) before it has fully cured. There's lots of variables in this, but I usually find with a 2:1 yellow:blue ratio that 2 hours is about right. At this point the Green Stuff is firm enough to hold it's shape while being transferred but soft enough to stick to the surface. It does replace practise and a gentle touch, but it very similar in approach to using transfers/decals. Yeah, I’ll get around to painting it some day, when I get around to making some troops for him to command.

The trouble you are having attaching stuff in the right spot comes from using superglue. It’s almost inevitable that it’ll not be in the right spot and then the glue sets so quick you can’t adjust it. You either want an alternative type of glue or the way I do it is to apply the Green Stuff (usually an icon) before it has fully cured.

There’s lots of variables in this, but I usually find with a 2:1 yellow:blue ratio that 2 hours is about right. At this point the Green Stuff is firm enough to hold it’s shape while being transferred but soft enough to stick to the surface. It does replace practise and a gentle touch, but it very similar in approach to using transfers/decals.

]]> Comment on Charity Auction by humbrade http://masteroftheforge.com/2011/10/10/charity-auction/#comment-629 humbrade Fri, 11 May 2012 08:05:00 +0000 http://masteroftheforge.com/?p=2864#comment-629 I just noticed that he's painting it yellow? It wont fit into my army unfortunately... Would of loved some of your work to call my own though. lol. I just noticed that he’s painting it yellow? It wont fit into my army unfortunately… Would of loved some of your work to call my own though. lol.

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